Ace Face Dyes

Vendor Biography

I’ve been dyeing discs for several years now, primarily as a hobby. After being talked into doing a few dozen commissioned pieces, I decided to move in a different direction. What I enjoy the most is having complete freedom to decide my own approach to each dye, after looking at plastic color(s) and stamp design. I almost always leave the disc stamps on, as the stamps are often what makes a disc unique. I try to use dye colors that are complimented by stamp color(s).

All of my dyes are done by blowing air to move dyes across the surface of a viscous fluid medium. It is a process that can really test my lungs. My process for each dye bed, before introducing the disc for curing, takes about 90 minutes on average. Each disc I dye will have a dyed rim, for a more finished look.

I put a lot of work into each dye because of my process. I only dye premium plastics, opaque or translucent, and many of my discs are rare, and/or otherwise desired by avid throwers. Poor dye results and/or discs that aren’t special will have the lowest prices.

In my own experience, these plastics (just the ones I dye) are ranked from best to worst in their ability to hold dye color and definition:

– Opto-x & Opto-x Chameleon & Opto-x Glimmer

** I have 4-year old dyes in the above plastics that still have retained all of their color, and nearly all detail definition.

– Lucid-x (and variants like above)

– Opto, Lucid, Ethereal, Titanium

– Royal (almost as good as Opto, actually)

– Aura

– ESP (bleeds over time, but still looks good after a few years if the dye isn’t too detailed)

All discs will be shipped in protective plastic bags, in a small box.